RULE of THIRDS

Perhaps the most well know principle of photographic composition is the ‘Rule of Thirds‘.

The “Rule of Thirds” one of the first things that budding digital photographers learn about in classes on photography and rightly so as it is the basis for well balanced and interesting shots.

I will say right up front however that rules are meant to be broken and ignoring this one doesn’t mean your images are necessarily unbalanced or uninteresting. However a wise person once told me that if you intend to break a rule you should always learn it first to make sure your breaking of it is all the more effective!

What is the Rule of Thirds?

The basic principle behind the rule of thirds is to imagine breaking an image down into thirds (both horizontally and vertically) so that you have 9 parts. As follows.

As you’re taking an image you would have done this in your mind through your viewfinder or in the LCD display that you use to frame your shot.

With this grid in mind the ‘rule of thirds’ now identifies four important parts of the image that you should consider placing points of interest in as you frame your image.

Not only this – but it also gives you four ‘lines’ that are also useful positions for elements in your photo.

The theory is that if you place points of interest in the intersections or along the lines that your photo becomes more balanced and will enable a viewer of the image to interact with it more naturally. Studies have shown that when viewing images that people’s eyes usually go to one of the intersection points most naturally rather than the center of the shot – using the rule of thirds works with this natural way of viewing an image rather than working against it.

In addition to the above picture of the bee where the bee’s eye becomes the point of focus here are some of examples:

Another Rule of Thirds Example

In this image I’ve purposely placed the head of my subject on one of the intersecting points – especially his eyes which are a natural point of focus for a portrait. His tie and flower also take up a secondary point of interest.

In this shot I’ve placed the subject along a whole line which means she is considerably off center and therefore creating an additional point of interest. Placing her right in the center of the frame could have resulted in an ‘awkward’ shot.

In a similar way a good technique for landscape shots is to position horizons along one of the horizontal lines also as I’ve done with the following shot (I’ll let you imagine the lines).

Using the Rule of Thirds comes naturally to some photographers but for many of us takes a little time and practice for it to become second nature.

In learning how to use the rule of thirds (and then to break it) the most important questions to be asking of yourself are:

• What are the points of interest in this shot?
• 
  
• Where am I intentionally placing them?
• 
  

Once again – remember that breaking the rule can result in some striking shots – so once you’ve learnt it experiment with purposely breaking it to see what you discover.

Lastly – keep the rule of thirds in mind as you edit your photos later on. Post production editing tools today have good tools for cropping and reframing images so that they fit within the rules. Experiment with some of your old shots to see what impact it might have on your photos.

General Purpose Lens

When you first buy a DSLR camera, perhaps we are only one orientation: snap, snap and snap. We never think to replace the lens, buy a flash, and so forth. However, with development time, increase in flying hours, berambahnya community and information related to the digital SLR camera, the orientation we gradually began to shift.

Based on personal experience, who first comes to mind most likely is the lens. The hope is, by replacing the built-in camera lens (kit lens), with other lenses with the built quality is better, we can obtain the images are "better". Why do I give the quotation marks? Better here once again is very relative, because it does not always apply where by replacing the default lens automatically and immediately we can get better results, because the photos are not just good or not depends on the equipment used, but also on a person's ability taking photos. And honestly, from personal experience too, though now there are L series lenses (17-40L) are stuck on my EOS 400D, that would still have some friends in the FN that result shots much nicer than I even just use the default lens 18 -55.

But despite it all, still in terms of image quality, color sharpness, and durability, L series lenses still had the upper hand than the kit lens. If not, why bother Canon issued a series of L product line with prices many times more expensive than non-L series lens? Of course you can answer it yourself right?

Well, this time I want to discuss about the choice of congenital lens or lens replacement kit. Congenital lens here is precisely whether the series 18-55 with IS (450D, 1000D) and non-IS (400D). The main purpose of this lens replacement is simple: I want to get better quality. Another goal might be is to get a lens that can be taken anywhere and is suitable for any mood or more often referred to as all-round general purpose lens or lens. But, for the purpose of this second application might be somewhat more difficult, because after all, no name lenses suitable for all situations. Each lens has the characteristics that adapted to the purpose such as ultra wide angle lens, wide angle, zoom, telephoto, and macro.

From left to right Lens Canon EF 17-40mm f / 4 L USM, Canon EF 24-105mm f / 4 L IS USM, Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM and Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8 L USM

So, in order to achieve two objectives, you need to know is in the range where a general purpose lens it actually play? Of the few references that I read, general-purpose lens is basically a play on the range of lens focal lengths between 28mm -70 mm. This figure applies to full frame lens category (1 digit serial nation - 5D, 1D, etc.). For cameras that have a crop factor (Field of View Crop Factor) 1.3 x and 1.6 x, (series 2 digits, 3 digits, and 4 digits) will be shifted due to the choice cuts on the frame so that the effective number of 28mm - 70mm to be cut to about 17mm - 55mm. Well, the choice here, of course, somewhat complicated, because as we know, the output lens canon in this category only 1: Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM. Although not a line of L Series lenses, this lens is very expensive and even the same as the ranks of class L series lens Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8 L USM.

lens in a state at maximum zoom

Just now we narrow the discussion of this lens option only for the cameras with crop factor. Currently, the focal length between 17mm to 55mm can be obtained with the lens as follows:EF 17-40mm f/4.0 L USMEF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USMEF-S 17-85mm f/4-5.6 IS USM,EF 24-70mm f/2.8 L,EF 24-105mm f / 4 L IS USMEF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USMFor third party lenses, there is Tamron 17-50 and Sigma 17-70 Macro. However, this time I will not discuss the third party lenses because in addition have never tried to use or possess, however, first-party lenses are always guaranteed a more than third party.

From the sixth Canon lens above, the outline can be divided into 2: wide angle (17mm digit starts) and zoom (24mm digit starts.) From both these divisions, in fact we can still get the benefits of focal length for all susana, ranging from landscape to portrait photographs (almost all the atmosphere unless the macro). The selection is of course very important for us who like to travel, either back to nature or city tour. Every moment can be perpetuated by these two categories of this lens.
However, still we have to choose between them is not it? Except if we want to bring more than 1 lens while traveling. Well if it's like this we have to decide more or more often where we motret scenery with motret group photo, portraits, birthday parties etc.. If we take more photos with a wide-angle side, then the prefix 17mm is the most appropriate, yet in kisran 40-85mm, we can still get a range of focal lengths to photograph besides scenery. Currently, I use 17-40 as the choice of general purpose lens, though I still have to bring 55-250mm for telephoto lenas. Ideally 70-200 L lens is the most accurate but still not bought.

However, there is one option that may be able to represent all, but also can get exceptional quality. This option is the 24-70L lens. Due to this side of the wide angle lens can still be obtained, as well as with the zoom. The reason for the selection of these lens is image quality that many people say is very nice and sharp. But this lens has one weakness that is sometimes extremely avoided by those who like to travel with luggage conditions are very miniml. The weakness of this lens is: SEVERE
Just a note, we can only get a picture perfect almost be said of the lens with focal length range that is not too large. Never you expect to get a good picture quality of the lens 18-200mm sapujagad sorts. Indeed, its focal length is very large, but only at certain focal lengths only we could get a sharp picture quality. On the other focal length is usually generated images tend to be soft.
In terms of budget, 17-85mm lens can be an option compared to 17-40 or 17-55 though the picture quality can not be compared with the second lens. This lens can be said to represent both categories, wide angle can be obtained, tele-zoom can also be obtained at 85mm. If you want to take pictures of objects that is more than that, do not expect much, better to use a 70-200 lens and grab all objects in the 200m.

Apart from all that, the options keep coming back to you. Adjust to your needs and availability of funds. Make no mistake buying so as not on target.

Lens Collection Guide

Someone who just started the hobby of photography by purchasing a camera with a lens kit, generally will have the same question when I want to add a collection or add to the range of photography who want to arrest. Whether it's the reason for the complete range of coverage, add a collection of lenses, the desire to focus to a photography interest is more specific, the field of macro photography for example, and so forth. Surely the same questions that will arise when trying to make considerations in buying new lenses, namely: "what lens should I buy next?"
And to answer questions like that, that should be known by the photographer is trying to sort out between needs and wants. There are no wrong choices in this option. More needs-oriented, that are willing to buy the lens is a lens that needed to be able to capture moments that want to be photographed.
For example, after using a lens with 18-55mm range, and then find a new interest in doing landscape photography because it was owned by the lens can not capture the "wide" is desired, then this factor that encourages photographers to buy a wide lens, 10-22mm, 10-20mm, 11-18mm, and so on.
Also, after using the class 18-55mm lens that generally have the build quality, contrast and color are still at the level of "enough" to produce a better picture, sometimes a photographer also has a tendency to have a better lens in terms of speed performance focus, optical quality, contrast and so forth. For example, the desire to buy 17-40mm lens for Canon L or 17-55mm for Nikon, which is based more on a desire to have a better lens than the previous. This choice was not wrong.
Of the 2 choices, there is no right or wrong choice. Generally what happens is a better option that can be taken when making decisions to buy new lenses. Could be a need for a lens with a wider range is a good decision at the time wanted to get a wider perspective sudat in taking pictures, but is less precise decision if you want to concentrate more to take pictures more quickly in conditions of poor lighting.
To get the right answers to get a better consideration in buying a lens. Best answer will come from the photographers themselves, who have more knowledge of the condition and problems more often faced. So the photographer should have answers to these questions as above, "what lens should I buy next?".
To start the considerations in buying lenses. It's good any photographer who are interested to invest in this lens, set the following questions:

What lens do you have today?What is your interest in photography today?What are the limitations that you often encounter when taking the picture?Are limitations include limitations to be photographed with a distance closer?
Is it in the form of limitations can not get better exposure? the focus is less accurate, less focus fast, low contrast and so forth.To be honest choice of a novice photographer would not so difficult because generally every beginner will start his photography hobby by using such a kit lens 18-70mm, 18-55mm, 17-85mm, 18-135mm or 24-105mm. So the next lens worth considering, if you want to add a range of coverage that can be photographed is based on the limitations experienced while using these lenses and should not be a high overlapping with the previous range of lenses. For example, after having lens 18-70mm lens with the ability to get a longer telephoto lens, the 18-135 is not the answer that fits. Of course, 70-300mm lens could be a more appropriate choice.
So in practice, generally the choice of investing is to buy a lens lenses that possess a long range coverage can not be pursued while shooting (either wider or more telephoto), or a lens with a better capability in its ability in areas that have pencahaayaan less (or have a large aperture value). but this time the discussion will be more focused on the need or desire to increase the coverage range of the lens. In fact, if necessary, seek the lens with the ability to shoot the closer to obtain a high magnification using a micro or macro lens.

Tele Lens
Add a telephoto lens into your lens collection, such as 55-200mm or 70-300mm, probably is a logical choice to increase the range of lenses which originally from a kit lens. By using a more telephoto lens, will get more magnification for the object image with the same distance than the normal zoom lens or your kit lens for example.
Or there are times where photographers can not shoot closer to the object due to limitations in the photo shoot for example fencing, river or natural object in the photo is very dangerous if approached. photographing lions in the safari park for example.



Wide Lens
But if the experience is difficult to incorporate all elements into a frame while the space for the more backward in taking the picture is not there anymore, then the lens is needed is a wider lens. Lenses with the range 10-20mm, 10-22mm, 11-28mm or 12-24mm is the choice sufficiently precise to answer this need, unless you use the camera with the ability of full frame 35mm camera, then the range up to 12mm focal length is already a very width for your camera.
Using a very wide lens is a very attractive option because it can capture a wider area (vista), playing with distortion effects, but would be better if displayed with a good composition by including a foreground element to obtain "depth effect" is good in a photo . Use a wider lens is more likely to give the impression of "story telling" in a photograph because matching elements from the foreground, middleground to background into a whole story in a photograph.



More Close
If you want to take photos of objects closer to the level of detail is high, there are several options that can be used to make the focal distance from the camera to photograph the object becomes closer. Example: use belows, extension tubes, diopters, reversed lens, but the best and easiest option is to use the lens micro / macro.
Choice of lens focal length for macros also varied, ranging from normal lens 50mm, 55mm, 60mm, 85mm telephoto images like, 90mm, 100mm or 105mm and 150mm telephoto, 180mm and 200mm, generally would provide approximately the same magnification at closest focus distance .
So the selection of lens focal length for macros will be based on the desired working distance. If the object image is a photograph of the product, it will choose a lens with a shorter range (50mm, 55mm or 60mm). But if to shoot photographs of objects that require longer distances to avoid disturbing objects such as images of butterflies, insects, and so will be easier when using a telephoto lens with more range, for example 180mm. But that does not mean photographing insects can not use 60mm lenses, but effortnya will be greater because the photographer will need patience and camouflage are good enough to get the macro insect photos.
In addition there is the effect of control perspective on macro lens such as 85mm PC that can be used to produce perspective effects or even create a perspective effect to be reduced when taking the picture. But the existence of this effect, also will make the lens becomes more expensive.




Lenses With Special Effects
There is also an option to obtain special effects such as the curved areas of the image as seen by the eyes of fish causing the impression of unusual or "out of the world". However, for lenses with special effects such as these, tend to be expensive and must be careful in its use because of the distortion effects are very great. Even if it is not wise to use it, could damage the image to generate.Lens options with this effect or it is called fish-eye lens, is also available in 3rd party products at a more friendly, available in a fixed focal length in general (8mm, 10.5 mm, 15mm, 16mm and so on). But now also available as a zoom such as those made by Pentax or even fish-eye lens Tokina 10-17mm or 17-28mm.

Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM Lens

Product Details

This standard lens features superb quality and portability. Two high-refraction lens elements and new Gaussian optics eliminate astigmatism and suppress astigmatic difference. If crisp images with little flare are important to you, they can be obtained even at the maximum aperture with this robust lens

Lenses General Available Mounts  Canon Compatitble with Full Frame sensors?  YES Performance Focal Range  50 - - mm Maximum Aperture  f/1.4 Minimum Aperture  f/22 Closest Focusing Distance  450 mm Built-in Image Stabilisation  NO Built-in AF Motor  YES Construction Lens Construction - Groups  6 Lens Construction - Elements  7 Size (Length x Diameter)  50.5  73.8 mm Weight  290 g Filter Attachment Size  58 mm